Ultimate Guide to Villefranche de Rouergue, France
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Ultimate Guide to Villefranche de Rouergue, France
Stunning Medieval Village
When you visit the South of France, there is no shortage of fairytale towns! But my favorite, and where we chose to buy a property, is Villefranche de Rouergue (VdR).
At one time the town was walled for defense, and it was a major location for commerce.
In medieval France, villages like VdR, were planned on a grid that radiates from the central square and were called bastides.
Where is Villefranche de Rouergue?
Villefranche de Rouergue (VdR) is a charming town located in the Occitanie (previously known as Midi-Pyrenées) region of south-western France. It’s a place with a rich history and a lot of character, making it an excellent destination.
One of the standout features of Villefranche is its well-preserved medieval core. The town’s central square, Place Notre-Dame, is a picturesque spot with arcaded buildings and a beautiful cathedral at its center. This square is the heart of the village and a great place to soak in the local atmosphere.
The Aveyron department is marked by rolling green hills, flowing rivers, gorges, farms, and deep blue skies. Villefranche is surrounded by stunning countryside, so if you enjoy nature, there are plenty of opportunities for hiking and exploring the beautiful landscapes of the area.
I love driving around the region and discovering beautiful villages full of history, castles, and cobblestone streets, and Villefranche, which is notable on its own, is the perfect place to be based.
Transportation: How to Get to Villefranche
From the United States, we usually fly into Paris, then into Toulouse. From Toulouse, we normally take the train into VdR and rent a car there.
By Plane
From Paris, there are two airports you can fly into: Toulouse Blagnac (TLS) or Rodez-Aveyron (RDZ). We prefer Toulouse as it is a bigger airport even though Rodez is a little closer to VdR.
By Car
Car Rental
From Toulouse or Rodez, you can rent a car and drive into Villefranche. Most rental cars have GPS. It’s about a 30-minute drive from Rodez and about 1 hr 45 min from Toulouse.
Another option is to take the train or bus (see below) and rent a car in VdR. Try Rent-a- Car or LeClerc–but you will need to get to the rental locations which are a bit out of the town center. If you can manage it, it is a much cheaper way to rent a car.
By Bus
If you fly into Rodez, you can take the Lio bus to VdR. It will drop you off at the train station.
You can also take a bus from Toulouse (Matabiau Train & Bus Station). We have done this a couple of times when the train workers were on strike. Yep, that’s France for ya!
Additonally, sometimes they are working on the train lines between Villefranche and Toulouse, so you will take the train as far as you can, and then you will take a bus the rest of the way. If this happens, don’t worry; it’s quite streamlined.
By Train
I love train travel; it’s a great way to get around! You get to see areas you might not otherwise see, and it’s more relaxing and sustainable than flying or driving. Not only that, the train system in Europe can’t be beat.
Villefranche has its own train station right next to the village center. It’s a short walk to and from our house (about 10 minutes).
When arriving at the Toulouse airport, you can take bus to the main train station (Matabiau) which is in the city center. Then, take the train from there to Villefranche. There are several stops along the way, but the trip only takes about 1 hour 30 minutes.
Of course, you can certainly take the train to Villefranche from other areas as well.
Check SNCF Connect for routes and schedules. I have their app on my iPhone which is really helpful for planning train trips.
Transportation within Villefranche
In the center of town, there is no need for transportation–it is very walkable. Make sure you wear comfortable, sturdy shoes because the streets are paved with cobble stones.
Bastibus
If you need to go somewhere outside the center, there is a free bus system around town that is serviced by three lines.
One thing to keep in mind is that the Bastibus does not run during lunch or on Sundays.
Here is the link for the Bastibus route map and schedule.
Taxi
Taxis are hard to come by and can be expensive. You would need to call one of the private taxi companies. I highly recommend renting a car to get around.
What’s the best time to visit Villefranche de Rouergue?
Summer is definitely the best time to visit. The weather is nice, and the blue sky can’t be beat. However, keep in mind that it can be a bit warm, so dress accordingly. It can also be surprisingly cool at times, so layers are best.
The weather is also pleasant in the shoulder season (May and September), but there won’t be a lot of activity; some attractions, restaurants, and stores are only open in summer. Villefranche is great at this time if you want a quiet getaway.
Best Things to Do in Villefranche
In the summer, the village offers quite a few things to do. For an up-to-date schedule stop by the Tourism Office. For example, there are music concerts, festivals, parades, food and live music every Sunday night (les marchés gourmands) at Place Saint Jean, art expos, etc. It’s a great way to melt into the local culture.
Enjoy the Village Center
The old town center (centre ville) of Villefranche is really lovely. Be sure to take some time to walk around and look at the centuries-old architecture and visit some of the local shops and restaurants.
Thursday Market (Marché)
Villefranche is also known for its traditional Thursday market, which is one of the largest in the area. It’s a fantastic opportunity to taste local cheeses, wines, and other French deliciousness. The market is not just a place to shop; it’s a cultural experience.
If you are in town on a Thursday, then this 800-year-old market is an absolute must. And, Villefranche is at its liveliest on market day. People come from all of the local villages, rain or shine, to shop at the marché.
Cathedral (Collégiale Notre-Dame)
Chapels (Chapelle des Pénitents Noirs & Chapelle Saint-Jacques)
These two chapels are very unique and well worth a visit.
Chapelle des Pénitents Noirs
The Chapelle des Pénitents Noirs in the old town is absolutely captivating. This historical site is like no other in its architectural beauty.
Dating from the 17th to 18th century, this chapel is renowned for its striking Gothic design, intricate stone carvings, and Baroque art. You would never expect it from the austere façade.
The well-preserved frescoes adorning its ceiling are not to be missed. This cultural landmark offers insights into the region’s religious history and architectural prowess.
Whether marveling at its ornate details or reflecting in its tranquil atmosphere, a visit to the Chapelle des Pénitents Noirs promises a memorable experience for all who visit it.
Chapelle Saint-Jacques
Dating back to the 13th century, this charming chapel, dedicated to Saint James the Great, beckons travelers with its simple yet elegant Romanesque design.
Nestled amidst the quaint streets of the town and just around the corner from the Chapelle des Pénitents Noirs, it offers visitors a peaceful retreat and a glimpse into medieval craftsmanship.
Inside, intricate stone carvings adorn the walls, depicting scenes from the life of Saint James and other biblical narratives, while the soft glow of stained glass windows bathes the interior in a warm, ethereal light.
This chapel is a significant part of Les Chemins de Saint-Jacques (see below for more info on this).
Local History Museum (Musée Urbain Cabrol–MUC)
Designated a Museum of France, you will find a wonderful collection of art and archeological pieces that provide a glimpse of the region throughout history–from the first people to occupy the area to the 20th century.
It is located in the town center behind the medieval fountain.
Farming & Foie Gras Museum (Musée de la Ferme et Du Foie Gras)
This petite museum showcases the history of foie gras and agriculture. It is located in the downstairs section of a store offering wine and food, much of it local. Entrance is free.
Foie gras is controversial (I don’t eat it), but the history is interesting and is a big part of the local culture.
Film Location: All the Light We Cannot See
If you are a fan of the Netflix series, be sure to check out some of the filming locations around the bastide. You can read more in my behind-the-scenes post, All the Light We Cannot See.
Toll Bridge (Pont des Consuls)
This old bridge is a delight for the eyes and was built over a 20-year period from 1298 to 1321. In order to enter into the bastide, you’d have to pay a toll. Now, a striking contemporary statue marks the half-way point.
Monastery (Chartreuse Saint-Sauveur)
The 15th century monastery is in the gothic style and is one of the largest cloisters in France.
It is just outside the center, but you can walk or take the Bastibus to get there.
Outdoor Activities & Hiking
The Way of Saint James (Les Chemins de Saint-Jacques de Compostelle)
What is the Way of Saint James?
Basically, it is the French pilgrimage paths that lead to the Camino de Santiago in Spain. Les Chemins are a UNESCO Heritage Site.
There are four main, traditional routes harking back to the 1200s. The route through Villefranche is the “Conques to Toulouse” path.
You will see many markers in Villefranche if you look carefully for the shells.
Hiking
Even if you are not up for committing to a pilgrimage, there are plenty of gorgeous hiking paths in the area. I suggest stopping by the tourist office for some up-to-date maps.
Staying in Villefranche
There are a lot of good places to stay in Villefranche–something for every budget.
I suggest staying in the old town center to enjoy all that it has to offer.
Booking.com
Day Trips from Villefranche
Belcastel
The village of Belcastel is one of my favorites to visit because of its ethereal beauty. Although dainty in size, there is a lot to see and take in. I recommend taking some goodies for a picnic next to the river that runs through this magical village.
Najac
The village of Najac is also a great place to go to on a day trip. It, too, is a small but wonderous town with a fortress castle at the top of the hill. Make sure you wear some good walking shoes, so you can explore it and have an amazing view from the top.
Rodez
For a bigger town, try Rodez. If you fly into this town, then stay a couple days and take in all that it has to offer before traveling on.
Around the Aveyron Department
For some other amazing villages to visit in the Aveyron, check out The 10 Most Beautiful Villages in Aveyron, France. Some of these are a little too far for a day trip, but all are worth a visit.
Interested in seeing what it’s like to live in VdR?
Check out my Persnickety Living YouTube Channel.
Until next time…
